On The Ground In Berlin

As of right now, I've been in Berlin for a week. A short time to really give a take on the city, but here's what I've got.

The record stores are good. I already knew that before I got here, but it's worth noting. I've stumbled upon quite a few I'd never heard of (and sadly still don't know the names of), and the ones I already knew about – Hardwax and Melting Pot – continue to stand up. It's clearly a town full of longtime DJs cycling through their collections. Used unknown disco and rare American house pops up as frequently as back home, and harder to find European stuff is more readily available.

Food is a different story. There's a new place called Little Otik where I'm headed on Friday night that may be the savior (a former Diner cook from Brooklyn is helming the ship there), but otherwise it's lots of soft pasta and fusion. I've pretty much stuck to the farmers market and home cooking.

Nightlife thus far has proven to be solid, but nothing incredible has hit me yet (in this stay or in the four or five trips I've taken here before). The feeling I get is that Berlin is a city that's spoiled for choice and a city that doesn't have to fight as hard for... I'm trying to figure out a better to way to say it, but I don't think there is one... their right to party.

On the first point, last Friday I could've gone to hear Prosumer or a huge Hyperdub lineup. Or Seth Troxler and Nina Kraviz. Or The Field. Or DJ Naughty. Or Mark E and Move D. Not to mention a number of other things at excellently reputed clubs. When there are that many choices, even in a city where much of population is hip to more refined dance music, things can get dispersed.

I dispersed myself to the latter option with E and D at a club called Horst Krzbrg (pictured above), which I've heard great things about. The club itself was a large room with a tiled dancefloor and a powerful if not finessed soundsystem. Mark E chugged things along with slow house for a bit, then ramped it up to a hands in the air pace. He was great. But all the elements – club, sound, crowd, DJ – didn't ever come together and rise above it all in the way I've seen it happen in New York.

I think that because of all the constraints on New York's scene, where the general difficulties of throwing parties are amplified, when the right elements combine, everyone in the room is very aware that what's happening is an exception to the rule, and that causes the vibe of a night to go beyond the basic elements that make a party good to become transcendent. When the rule is that you always have great lineups, solid sound and a copacetic crowd, it's harder for it to feel special.

Again, my experience is limited here, and I know it would be easy to come to New York (or even live in New York) and not experience something magical at a party, but so far, I'm gonna keep the crown on the hometown. I've got a few months to give Berlin more of a chance, though, and this Sunday I'm going to Berghain for the first time to hear Ame and Dixon. If anything can give us a run for the money, I imagine it will be that.

To wrap it up, I should be very clear. I love it here. Friend-making is fast, and everyone seems to be genuinely interested in getting together, taking it easy and taking the time to get to know you. The people are excellent, and that's really what makes a city.